Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
